Spun from hemp, drawn in wax, steeped in indigo: cloth of the mountain people

Where was it born?

The mountains of northern Vietnam are home to many ethnic minorities, including the Hmong and the Dao. Hmong textile-making begins with growing hemp (lanh in Vietnamese) in the fields. Fibers are stripped from the harvested stalks, joined by hand into long threads, softened by steaming and boiling, and then woven. Weaving a single cloth is said to take days, sometimes weeks.

Patterns are drawn on the woven cloth with melted beeswax, and the cloth is dipped in indigo and dried in the sun again and again. Only the waxed areas resist the dye, and when the wax is finally removed, white patterns emerge on the indigo ground. The patterns are said to carry mountains, water, plants and symbols of prayer rooted in daily life. Embroidery and appliqué of colored fabric have also been handed down, with patterns that differ by region and ethnic group. These handwoven ethnic minority textiles are collectively called thổ cẩm.

How to tell them apart and choose

Handwoven hemp has a crisp, slightly rough feel. Small irregularities in the weave and along the edges are the mark of handwork. Each indigo-dyed piece varies in depth of color, and the lines drawn in wax bleed a little differently every time. Starting with small items such as stoles, pouches or coasters keeps your luggage light and fits easily into everyday life.

How to buy and bring them home

In Hanoi, shops selling ethnic minority textiles cluster around the Temple of Literature (Văn Miếu) and in the Old Quarter. Shops with direct ties to the makers’ villages may tell you who made a piece and where, which makes choosing all the more enjoyable. Natural indigo can bleed at first, so hand-wash separately for the first few washes. Textiles are light and fold into gaps, so they double as padding when you buy ceramics too.